JANNA MARIA VALLÉE
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Printing with Natural Dyes: What's involved

7/16/2014

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naturaldyesonsilk
Logwood and brazilwood stenciled onto silk charmeuse
I've already geared this year toward what would in theory include a slow paced, meditative art practice by committing to the slowest type of weaving: tapestry (on my new loom).  Most recently though I've reacquainted myself with printing with natural dyes and I'm hooked.  Here's the thing about these two practices, they are very labor intensive and require an immense amount of patience.  Yet, when I'm in process I am charged with energies that I sometimes forget exist in me.  That's when I know I'm on the right path: I can't sleep, nor do I remember to eat (Both those side effects are usually short lived though, and are actually a welcome change from those same effects coming from a different source, hint: "Whah!")  

The process of printing with natural dyes is complex, and I might add not the most efficient.  So much so that I'm quite sure any natural prints I make will invariably be a part of art installations as opposed to sold as garments or home textiles - I just couldn't put a retail price on them (note this is different from natural dyeing or eco-printing -- those I make to sell).  The process takes weeks to complete!  If a stranger were to ask me how I made the pictured yardage I'd tell them I stenciled natural dyes onto silk.  Sounds simple right?  But first I extract the dyes from woodchips and thicken them with guar gum.  Before that I mordant the silk (a one-day process) and then size it with soy milk that I make from scratch (another whole day).  Then I print (or stencil in this photos' case) the dyes onto the silk and wait for it to dry completely before steaming the entire yardage.  Now I wait at least three weeks for the soy sizing to cure before I rinse it and use it for who-knows-what.  As intense as that is I love every single second and can't wait to start the process over again.  Of course a great way to make the process more efficient is to mordant a lot of fabric at once for future use.

Janna

PS This yardage was only possible because my amazing mom babysat for several days while I made it.  Thank you Mom!
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Silk and Storms

2/23/2014

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This winter has felt especially long, I think because we are getting to know a new city, so we're not yet aware of all the inside activities that are available, nor do we have many friends (to visit).  So, we've been spending a lot of time inside our apartment.  At the end of one especially stormy week (we must have spent 3 full days inside) I was determined to get out of the house, and I thought it might be fun to entertain Sam with fabric in the wind.  I think I had more fun playing with the silk than he did watching me.  
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Egoskeleton

5/21/2012

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photo by America Blasco

This installation re-contextualizes my 2010 shag dress as an Egoskeleton.  It's a play words, yes, which I pretend to shy away from but find myself going back to, hehe.

In spiritual terms the ego often refers to the over-identification with the mind and the shedding of the ego, or realizing presence, is what Hinduism refers to as enlightenment, Buddhism, the end of suffering, and some Christ followers, salvation.  This piece is about successfully shedding the ego, if only temporarily, the remains seeming not unlike an exoskeleton.

I'm really happy with this use of the shag dress.  Last year I photographed it just laying around my house and was really fond of how it looked laying face down.  The back of the weaving is interesting, so I love being able to see it too.  So, when I started brainstorming as to how I would depict the idea of the ego being shed it was obvious that this was meant to be used for it.  It's so bright and showy after all.

I'm also interested in seeing it exhibited hanging upside down from a cord, as a kind of reference to the throwing of shoes on telephone wires to commemorate victories or large life accomplishments.  Yesterday I photographed it in this way, and as per usual I favoured the detail shots.  This is one of my faves (below)

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Leaves are Falling

2/20/2012

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Here are some shots of the fabric I've been working into this month.  There will be a lot more added to this falling sweater, including some subtle leaf prints and maybe even some goldleaf.  The falling sweater was printed with brazilwood and logwood and the full falling series is 5 vertical prints on 136 inches of silk

This finished piece will be shown at Eastern Bloc starting March 30th, 2012

photos by Riley Sparks

Update March 23rd:  Shortly after this post I accidentally ruined this fabric in a contaminated pot.  I was pretty sad at first, but the more I look at the photos the more I think the piece had already been resolved at this point.  So now I'm just glad I have these great photos.  For the show on the 30th I'll be showing the second part of this series which will be a lot different and feature a sound element.
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Natural Printing

1/16/2012

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from left to right; cochineal, brazilwood, osage, madder, fustic, logwood
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When I am dyeing textiles I feel at peace, but also highly charged.  It gets me vibrating with excitement (I can hear Lauren and Ali giggling at me).  It\s a phenomena I sometimes call yarn drunk, a term I first used with Ana while driving away from having bought a car load (literally) of hand-spun merino at a really good price.  If I remember correctly, my shear joy came out in the form of an ongoing evil cackle. 

I think I'll just say that yarn drunkenness applies to all textile related bliss, since I don't want to make y'all think I'm drinking my fabric dyes (dye drunk? hrmm I don't think so).

So, as the left evidence implies, I spent this weekend in bliss dyeing yarn swatches for a natural dye experiment I'm doing.  You'll hear more about that later.  Just know I am in my happy place :)
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new explorations into printing

12/15/2011

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evidence of past
captures imagination.
Watercoloury.

-
xj

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Eco Colour

9/11/2011

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Some lovely ladies in my life have recently inspired me to revisit natural dyeing.  While  visiting the great white north my friend Sasha gave me one her wonderful indigo dyed silk scarves (which I wore all summer and decided I needed more in various colours) and  I finally got to see Marja's eco-printed silk garments in person.  She has been keeping me inspired all year with photos of her new adventures in eco-printing, a technique which master-dyer India Flint has recently published a book about, Eco Colour (a really great book!).

So when I returned to Vancouver for my long awaited month long vacation I began experimenting with this new technique.  Oh what fun it is!  Seriously, of all the techniques I've experimented with recently eco-printing has made me the most excited.  The process is simple and yet varied so you can get really creative, and the results are always unpredictable and exquisite.  Each scarf has little details which change in different light sources (a characteristic of naturally dyed fabrics), so sadly it's really hard to capture these intricacies in photos.  Above are a small selection of ones whose beauty were captured half-decently.

Click on the photos for individual stories.

xo Janna


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Grad show cont...

5/19/2010

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Today I visited the Grad Exhibition again and enjoyed the quietness of the empty gallery and just spending time with everyone's work again.

This gave me the opportunity to take photos of two projects that I haven't yet shared in their finished state.  Above is my Jacquard weaving called Radical Hospitality I and below are photos of all angles of Radical Hospitality II.  They both speak to being in solidarity amidst disillusionment within a community (my church community) which is struggling with disagreement on the core issue of whether or not to welcome homosexuals into our community as equals.  I truly struggled when I considered whether I would continue to attend my church if the decision was made to not fully welcome them.  These pieces are about that thought process.

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Process pics

4/20/2010

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My imagery for this project is inspired by conversations around the church, hospitality and homosexuality.  I will be attempting to wear my convictions when this fabric is made into a dress.  The dominating image is that of a chalice which, in the negative spaces of stem, show two like-faces confronting each other; representing the likeness in gender among homosexuals who are in partnerships, as well as echoing the biblical scripture, 'God created man in His own image'  Genesis 1:27

I am currently going to a Baptist church here in Vancouver where we are in an active and serious dialogue about this topic.  I am extremely convicted about the importance of equality for gays in the church (and everywhere), and am feeling especially overwhelmed lately by the misinterpretation of the bible regarding the topic.

I pounded flowers (representing hospitality) into the fabric to achieve texture and later dyed it in potassium to show the contrast of the chalices (silk) against the negative space (rayon).  It is no coincidence that the faces are in the 'negative' space.

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I later rusted the fabric with nails and found objects.

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I then created a silkscreen of a chain and discharged the image on top, sometimes purposefully placing them across the mouths and eyes of the faces.  I'm not extremely satisfied with the obvious image of a chain for the purpose of representing bondage, burden and restriction.  I usually like to use more subtle imagery.  For this purpose it works though since, when it is made into a dress, it will not be as obvious what they are.


In some places I added chains with a foiling technique using gold foil. 
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Blueberry pancakes and indigo dyeing

8/24/2009

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My friend Corrie made a suprise visit from Montreal this week so we spent the morning eating delicious blueberry pancakes and Indigo dying fabric and yarn. It was such a treat to spend time with her in this way and on such a gorgeous sunny day.
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My indigo vat in the laundry room..
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Oh the wonders of indigo!
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    About me:
    I'm a west coast Canadian gal who after completing a BFA in Fibres at Concordia University in Montreal moved to the New York metropolitan area where I am pursuing my art practice while learning the ropes of motherhood.


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  • About
    • About Janna
    • Artist Statement
    • Workshops
  • Weavings
    • Purchase >
      • Available tapestries >
        • Jefferson Park V wool tapestry
        • Jefferson Park IV wool tapestry
      • Commission a Tapestry
    • New York Series >
      • Jefferson Park I
      • Jefferson Park II
      • Jefferson Park III
      • Jefferson IV
      • Jefferson Park V
      • Breather
      • About the series
    • Transitions Series >
      • Onward
      • Convergence
      • Plant Love
      • Blue blob whale ship
      • Madeira Park
  • Janna's handmade supplies
  • Contact